San Jose (Costa Rica)
Travel Day - 8 Feb 26
Up early (4:15 AM) for our international flight; dropped at the airport by 5:30 for a 7:30 flight; the day kicked off with a small hiccup. Southwest Airlines tried to charge us for bags even though our credit card gives us a free one and we thought international flights got one bag free— lesson learned. SW does not give a free bag for international flights. Credit card still paying off with the free bag. Cleared that one up. We sailed through security and on to the gate. We changed planes, not once, but twice (Austin and Houston) since retirees have the time (we were going to be in travel mode all day, no matter what), and the price meant we’d saved considerably compared to the RS flight option. First priority on the flight was finding the Super Bowl on TV, a little Southwest perk, but once we were out over the sea the connection died; not to worry—I logged into my Peacock account and got the game back on. We managed to watch the first half. Finally arrived in San José, Costa Rica in the evening. Getting through customs and immigration, collecting bags, locating our ride, and enduring the long drive to the hotel ate up the rest of the time, so we only caught the last four minutes—by then the Patriots were long gone. We finished dinner and our beers, headed up to the room, and called it a night.
San Jose - 9 Feb 25
We started the day with a great breakfast bar and excellent coffee, only to discover our self-booked room was actually a higher category than the one Road Scholar had reserved for the next two nights — I asked if we could simply pay the difference and stay, but the hotel was full, so we had to move. After sorting that out, we walked into town to buy a local SIM for my phone — a habit we picked up a few years ago because it’s far cheaper than Verizon’s $12/day; this time $20 covered voice and data for more than the two weeks we’d be here.
Karen was struck by the cultural differences in physical beauty. The mannequins in Costa Rica do not have the same shape as mannequins in the US. These forms were much more voluptuous than US standards of beauty. The ladies’ version of H&M models have plenty of curves and a well rounded booty. One of the reasons we travel is to experience different cultures.
Lunch was a treat from a nearby food truck, enjoying our first version of Casado (rice, beans, maybe a hash, salad and tortilla), local flavors with locals. While there, we met another couple who were on our trip. Little did we know that Barb would turn out to be our non-local bird expert who’s list kept us informed the entire trip. Thanks to Barb, we found the eBird app and were able to track the number of different birds that Randy captured through his lens. Karen settled by the pool while I wandered the grounds trying to photograph birds; it was too windy, tree tops whipping around, so the shots didn’t turn out. That evening, we headed to the bar where we chatted with more visitors, sharing tails of places visited, or to be visited, before attending our welcome-to-CR meeting — looking forward to the start of our adventure.
First Full Day with Road Scholar - 10 Feb 26
San Jose National Theater
We had a few minutes before the gold museum opened, so we made a short stop at the National Theater. Since we were only stopping for a few minutes, our guide gained entry (a guide’s secret handshake) and led a quick walk through the main foyer, where ornate chandeliers, gilded moldings, and impressive marble staircases hinted at the theater's storied past. Even in that brief span we appreciated the wealthy society that determined a need for opera premieres and glittering galas.
Museo del Oro Precolombino — Pre-Columbian Gold Museum
Visiting the Gold Museum in San José was a real treat—its many interesting displays traced centuries of craftsmanship and myth, with shimmering artifacts that made the past feel startlingly alive. Our tour guide described an egalitarian society that accepted and valued all people. He described matriarchal groups, and how that impacted traditions. He discussed from the role of Columbus on the art — which unfortunately did not stick in my head. But the highlight of the day wasn’t the artifacts; it was our tour guide, an absolute hoot whose stories, jokes, and infectious enthusiasm turned a great day into an unforgettable one.
Coffee Factory Tour
After soaking in the history, we took a short bus ride to the city’s coffee roasters, where the aroma was irresistible and the coffee truly delicious—rich, smooth, and the perfect pick-me-up. Costa Rica has been producing some of the world’s best coffee for more than a century, and for much of that time its finest beans were shipped abroad while everyday blends stayed local. On our visit, an expert led an interactive walk through the sun-dappled coffee farm, showing each stage from flowering and careful hand-picking to drying and processing. Along the path, were tasting stations where a master “cupper” taught the exacting craft of sampling — how to inhale, slurp, and evaluate aroma, body, acidity, and finish. Our guide pointed out plots with different varietals and processing methods, invited us to compare beans and brews side by side, and explained how altitude, soil and microclimate shape flavor and nuance. With steaming cups in hand and notes scribbled down, we moved from display to display, sampling richer, brighter and more complex cups until, by the end of the tour, we were all buzzing with the lively, unmistakable energy and warm hospitality of freshly brewed Costa Rican coffee.
Here again, the presenter made a significant impact on the flow of information. He would stop mid sentence to pose for any picture, causing all to chuckle. He rewarded our correct guesses with small candy prizes to keep us engaged. We were like kids in a coffee flavored candy store, which is exactly what it was.
Cabezudos - Mascaradas
While touring the coffee factory, we stumbled upon a colorful display of Costa Rica’s parade heads—cabezudos or mascaradas—oversized, handmade papier-mâché masks that bring mythical and cultural characters to life as they dance through the streets, especially on the National Day of Masquerades (October 31). Our guide explained that they are crafted by local artisans. These giant masks portray devils, witches, and giants in bold, exaggerated features and bright paints, each one a lively celebration of folklore and national identity. Seeing them amid the rich aroma of roasting beans felt fitting: the masks’ playful, larger-than-life presence echoed the warm, communal spirit of Costa Rican traditions, reminding us how craft, story, and everyday places like a coffee factory intersect to keep culture vibrant.
While waiting for the bus to load, I knew in the coming days I would have plenty of birds in flight (BIF) opportunities and thought I should take this opportunity to practice.
Our day ended with dinner on our own, though our tour guide kindly offered to take the whole group out—only Karen and I took her up on it. We wandered into a local brewery (go figure) and I ordered what I thought were six wings, only to have a plate arrive that was both drum and flats—so basically twelve—and they were enormous. We laughed at the unexpected portion size. Like the lunch the day before, the portion size seemed to be a demonstration of a land of plenty. The beer paired surprisingly well, and oversized wings turned the simple meal into one of those small, perfect travel moments that make the trip feel special.
