Travel Day to Cumberland (Amtrak)

Last year, about this time, Fred and I set out to ride from Pittsburgh to DC, ready for the adventure ahead. Unfortunately, Fred ran into a mechanical issue that kept him from finishing the ride. I promised him I would fly back to DC and complete the journey with him, and ended up finishing the ride solo—except for the last day, when a couple of old friends joined me.

Paula, Fred’s wife, gave us a ride to the Amtrak station, and Fred and I rode the train to Cumberland. After checking into the hotel, we found dinner and the other three riders, Jay Steffenhagen, Keith Mustard and Garth Kaliczak. Together, we set a start time for the next morning, ready to tackle the road ahead. A couple drinks later we turned in for the night.

Day 1 - Cumberland to Hancock 64 miles

We met our other three riders at mile marker zero in Cumberland under a pale, chilly morning sky, teeth-numbing but buzzing with excitement; after quick hellos, a couple of pics and gear checks, we rolled out together. We started with a laugh through one unexpected detour that sent us weaving along a quieter backroad and added a scenic surprise. Lunch time we refueled with a memorably humble lunch inside the Paw Paw, WV gas station—sandwiches on paper plates, picnic tables, backwoods West Virginia charm and the kind of roadside camaraderie that makes the ride worth it.

We arrived in Hancock. Fred and I stayed at the 1828 Trail Inn, a very quaint B&B. I stayed here last year, and the service from Joe (owner and operator) and the setting remained as outstanding as I recalled. Part of Joe’s process was to provide a custom breakfast. Oh, the homemade muffins! Last year the blueberry muffins were spectacular. Given an option, this year I picked banana nut. He asked what time we wanted breakfast, we said we would have to check with our riding companions, and let him know. Joe asked where were they staying and followed by inviting them to breakfast. Score…! (for them). They gave us their order for breakfast. Dinner was across the road, so not far to walk. Fred and I walked over a little early to begin the refueling process (it always starts with a couple beers). The rest of the riders (who stayed at a hotel down the street) finally joined us. Dinner was great and we all went back to our respective lodging. Fred and I sat on the porch enjoying a glass of wine.

Jay, Keith and Garth joined us for breakfast and couldn’t believe the hospitality of Joe. Breakfast was delicious and the to-go bags were welcomed. If you ever plan a night in Hancock MD you should stay at the “1821 Trail Inn”,https://www.yelp.com/biz/1828-trail-inn-hancock.

Day 2 - Hancock to Sheperdstown (65 miles)

After Joe’s great breakfast and another early start, we found the trail and headed toward Shepardstown. The first 10 miles was easy rolling, as this one section was a paved Rails-to-Trails. Scenery was filled with more farmland and more trailheads, each an opportunity to meet other riders as well as to enjoy a short break from pedaling. Fred and I picked a different hotel again as the other 3 wanted to ride longer and make it a 3-day ride while we were going to make our Day 3 a short day, and finish on the 4th.

We found a great German style brewery and restaurant; both were delicious. We even got a ride from one of the staff back to our hotel, she really went out of her way to make us feel welcome. Back to that West Virginia charm. If ever in Sheperdstown stop for dinner or just a couple cold ones at the Bavarian Inn, https://www.bavarianinnwv.com.

Day 3- Sheperdstown to Brunswick MD (24 miles)

Only 24 miles made a welcomed short day, but the last couple miles through town and up to the hotel felt like a mountain climb — steep, legs-burning, and worth every pedal. We rewarded ourselves with a stop at another local brewery for a long, cooling lunch, then settled in with Chinese takeout for dinner. The short day was a welcomed break: easy miles earlier gave us time to linger, taste the town, and recharge for whatever tomorrow would throw our way.

Day 4- Brunswick MD to MM Zero Georgetown (60 miles)

Last morning, same SOP: hotel breakfast, load up, and hit the road — the simple rhythm that makes departures feel like part of the ride. It was our last day on the trail; again with great weather that reminded me how different this year felt compared to last year, when five of six days were rain-soaked. This year clear skies, warm sun, and the camaraderie of fellow riders turned every mile into a pleasant memory.

One of the highlights of the trip was the stop at the Great Falls. Fred kept asking why are we stopping? I kept trying to tell him just wait and see. Still a little impatient the river and falls came into view. Then he understood why the stop.

I savored the smooth stretch of road, the laughter at rest stops, and the shared stories that made this trip more than a route on a map. The pain in our legs, pain on our behinds and different beds every night, was offset by the sharing of an adventure with a great friend made it all worth wile. The medicine of camaraderie makes all the ailing worth the ride. Already looking forward to next year’s adventure.